Alta Via 2 - Day 7 - Refugio Passo Valles to Refugio Rosetta Pedrotto

With another long day in our itinerary, we start breakfast at the earliest possible time, 7:00 a.m. There is nobody else in the dining room, and for a moment I envy those with the privilege to sleep in.

Breakfast is good, a nice variety of items to choose from, and a delicious bread. I eat much more than I usually do, there is supposed to be a long climb at the beginning of our day and I will need the energy.

On the trail by 8:00 a.m., heading uphill without warm up. The scenery is beautiful, Passo Valles becomes a dot way bellow us, we are back in a world of high mountains. At first the dirt trail leads through meadows full of purple blooms. It's steep but easy to negotiate, and even the several cable protected sections are a breeze. 

Reaching Forcella Venegia, 2,212 m, at 8:35 a.m. and Passo Venegiota, 2,303 m, an hour later, Refugio G. Volpi di Misurata al Mulaz comes in a view at 12:19. We are now at elevation of 2,560 with many more meters to go. 

After a break to brace ourselves for the steep gully that awaits us, we are back on foot at 12:49. Trail 703 which we start following here lets us gain elevation quickly. It is a firm path, stabilized by lumber beams, several switchbacks and we are looking at the Refugio from couple hundred meters higher.  At 13:50 we are clipped in working our way up a via ferrata. It was described in our book as a little tricky, but except maybe couple steps we do not find it difficult at all.

At 14:55 we have reached the pass. It's downhill from here. Literally. The trail drops down a gully filled with loose scree, we hug a rock wall tightly to prevent slipping at the higher, more exposed area, and then slowly proceed down on loose switchbacks, trying to avoid sliding down. It takes a toll on our legs. (Turning right at the top for perhaps 60 feet and then heading down the gully on much gentler grade would make it easier to descent. It becomes obvious once we are at the bottom, having followed the AV2 route down).

The trail markings on our map suggest the rest of way to Refugio Rosseta (Pedrotti) should be on regular trail with a section of long but easy via ferrata. The adventure; however is far from being over. For somebody (like me) who does not thrive in heights, the narrow path along a cliff with a view of a valley over  2,000 feet bellow, is not necessarily an idea of easy trail. I do not dare to look down, staring at every step in front of me I pray for this section to be over soon. And then a rock outcrop comes which we have to cross. Another one soon follows, and as we find out, most of this "trail" involves exposed scrambling, rarely protected by cable.

By the time we reach the via ferrata section at 17:30 my legs are trembling. I grab the cable, trying to calm my racing heart. The fact that one of the anchors peels off the wall does not help the case.

Otherwise the ferrata is mostly easy. It takes us along cliffs, crosses an exposed gully (some down climbing is required) and spits us on the other side, where the trail is still as narrow and as high as it was before but not with less obstructions we start making a better time. To my liking we now also reach few areas of less exposure (further away from the cliff).

A relief comes at 18:00 when we enter a valley carved by a glacier many millions of years ago. The glacial flow still can be seen in the shape of the valley floor. Still ways from "home" with one last climb ahead of us but the exposure is now over and even though our legs are spent we start making a decent time on the grippy rock as we climb up towards the evening sky.

At 19:01 a sign at a junction announces Refugio Rosetta is 10 minutes away. Couple minutes later we arrive at another junction, unmarked. The main trail is heading up to the left and then curves back while a smaller, faint path weirs off to the right. Both are correct, the right path being slightly shorter while the other one offers a gentler grade. 

Exhausted we arrive at the Refugio Rosetta Pedroti at 19:10, just barely making dinner. 

Alta Via 2 - Day 5 - Refugio Capanna Fassa to Hotel Garni Roberta

With another taxing day ahead of us we are on move at 8:12 a.m. descending from Refugio Capanna Passa atop Piz Boe via "the easier" route which involves three cable protected sections. We clip in for added protection but except for few steps along one of the ledges it is relatively easy descent which spits us back on trail 641 leading towards Passo Pordoi at 9:10 a.m.

Before we reach the pass, we face another decision. To descend the whole way on foot, or to take a gondola down for the final 1800 ft which in our guide book are described as so steep we will slide on our butts. Walking it is. And even though the slope is very steep, the trail is, just as we experienced in every other gully so far, very well set, and not once our butts get in contact with the dirt. It takes us 1hr 15 min to descend. We reach Paso Pordoi at 11:01 a.m. With our appetite built up we decide for a lunch break here, spaghetti with ragu cost 8.00 euro a plate, and are of decent quality.

20 minutes later we hit the trail again. One more uphill, we think, and a gradual descend to Lake Fedaia. We think wrong. The trail climbs up and start traversing slope high above the valley floor. It is a rolling terrain with more ups then downs. The scenery is an opposite of what we experienced yesterday. We walk in green meadows, variety of flowers bloom around us and they attract bees and butterflies. It is a pleasant walk, even though at some spots the trail gets little too close to the cliffy edge.

When the downhill finally comes, it has little to do with gradual. The trail starts dropping into the valley, quickly loosing elevation. A sign warns us the trail is suitable for expert hikers only, what it means is lots of slippery gravel underfoot, and a short section protected with cable which is not that exposed at all, even I do not hold the cable the whole way. Finally we descent to the lake. It is 14:20

Refreshing cold drink sounds good. Estimating we will be on our way in next ten minutes, we order beer and raspberry soda at a local restaurant. Obviously they are not in much hurry. 35 minutes later we finally leave.

According to the guide book we should follow the road all the way to Malga Ciapela. It is not a tempting thought. The road is twisty with many blind corners and no shoulder for trekkers to walk on. Instead we cross the bridge and on the other side find decommissioned road which locals use to promenade along the lake. It is much safer and much more enjoyable than dodging the traffic.

Hotel Carni Roberta where we arrive at 16:50 is one of the smaller ones in town. We are offered choice from two rooms, and given recommendations for dinner. Wi-if is not ncluded but only cost €2.00 per day.

After a long hot shower we visit the shopping area in town, a small grocery store, two sporting goods stores and a souvenir shop, and later make a decision to dine at hotel Roy where they offer us a special, a three course meal for €16.00

Alta Via 2 - Day 4 - Refugio Puez to Refugio Capanna Passa

The breakfast at Refugio Puez is so far the poorest on our trek. Considering the popularity of the hut we expect little bit more than couple pieces of bread, jam, butter and small cup of hot beverage for euro 6.50

We leave at 7:50 a.m., heading gently uphill towards Forcella de Crespepina where we arrive at 9:29 a.m. Soft clouds are lifting from the valley, changing our views constantly. It's beautiful up here between the rocks scattered on green rolling slopes with views of the more dramatic ranges in the distance. I wish we had more time to sit and soak up the scenery but this stage of our trek is so far the most challenging one, many steep miles still lie ahead of us, and we cannot procrastinate.

An hour later a downhill slope leads us to Passo Gardena. The pass is a green oasis between the monochromatic shades of the surrounding rock. A quick stop to have cold drink at local restaurant and at 10:45 a.m. we are walking again. This time our path leads uphill, traversing underneath a mass of tall rocks. At 11:30 a.m. we arrive to a gully, similar to the one we climbed yesterday. This is the easier way up with about 2/3 of the way being a trail and the last 1/3 vertical but easy via ferrata. This is the way we choose. Those daring to undertake the more difficult route will continue on the path for another 30 minutes to the starting point of Via Ferrata Tridentina, rated 3B which according to friends who took it compares to class 4 to easy class 5 scramble. 

The gully is steep but easy going. The trail, like yesterday is well packed and wide enough for comfort. Short cable aids a section around a semi exposed area, perhaps 20 feet long. It's obvious when we reach the last third, cliffy and vertical in my eyes, yet many of the locals don't seem to gear up. We do. Feeling comfortable with the protection on my via ferrata gear, I find this section much more fun than I expected. At 13:10 the gully is conquered, and we take a short 20 minutes lunch before continuing on our journey.

Once again I wish we did not have to rush. The scenery is one of high alpine country. I could sit here for hours appreciating the barren landscape not suitable to sustain life, beautiful yet daunting at the same time. The path takes us even higher, and when we think the climb is over, another wall appears which we have to scale. It's a taxing climb with another short via ferrata section, one we again decide to use our gear on as a part of it traverses a cliffy edge aided by slick metal stakes. 

Catching a first sight of Rifugio Cappana Fassa atop Peak Boe (Piz Boe) where we have reservation for tonight makes me feel uneasy. The mountain looms high above us and the climb from this perspective looks formidable, not mentioning it is still long ways away.

We continue on flatter path now, still enjoying the same rock dominated scenery. Sign at a junction suggest we are nearing Rifugio Boe. We have a choice of two routes, one of them, according to the sign, takes 30 minutes and requires some elevation gain. We see a group of five trekkers taking it. The other should be shorter, 20 minutes on a flat terrain with a section of via ferrata. That is the route we choose to take. Arriving at the protected section we find a first warning sign, realizing this one must be more serious that the others we encountered so far. 

The exposure is significantly higher here, we find ourselves on a narrower ledge in the middle of a cliff with hundreds of feet drop off bellow us. Surprisingly I am not feeling anxious. The ledge is wide enough for comfortable foot placement and hand holds are plentiful. Even more surprisingly I am actually enjoying the traverse. 

Arriving at Refugio Boe at 16:20 we replenish our energy with a bowl of Minestroni soup and a chocolate bar, and then tackle the last 1000 ft elevation gain to the top of Piz Boe. The route is described as a scramble; however there is a solid path to follow with one last protected section for the day which takes us around a cliff. Once again we clip in but many others don't. 

Hour and four minutes later we summit. The views are worth the climb, even though Marmolada Group which holds the highest peak in the Dolomity is partially obscured in clouds.

Refugio Capanna Fassa here atop the peak at 3125 m is the highest point of our trek. The building itself is the most rustic from all the ones along the trail. We walk in and we immediately feel at home. The warmth of the fire is welcoming, so are the owners. The dinner is at 18:30, we have a choice from an elaborate menu considering our location, and we are served what is by far the tastiest food we experienced in the mountains so far. (There are only 22 beds available here so if you plan to trek AV2 and wish to spend the night here I would recommend to reserve in advance).

After a sunset we retreat to the heated dining area, enjoying mulled wine and a game of yuker with our friends Jackie and Cody from Colorado whom we met here and with whom we share part of our journey. 

At 21:30 we hit the bed. Everybody else here is a fellow trekker with many miles ahead of them the next day, and by 22:00 the Refugio is completely quiet. 

Alta Via 2 - Day 3 - Refugio Genova to Refugio Puez

Thursday - August 29, 2013

The sky hold hints of sunrise color, a thin line of purple on the horizon. Excited for a day with views we eat breakfast consisting of bread, butter, jam, cheese, few pieces of salami, hot beverage and a cup of juice (this "mountaineering" breakfast costs €8.00 and is not as good as in Refugio Plose) and we are on foot by 8:00 a.m.

At first the route climbs a hillside to the top of a small ridge. The trail is in good condition and wide, to my liking, as it leads along few cliffs. Once we top, the view of another stage of today's  journey opens in front of us, and it's not one I like. The landscape is gorgeous, high towering mountains set in an alpine scenery of green pastures. After an easy traverse, the trail climbs a steep, semi exposed gully towards Forcella della Roa. From this vantage point I'm thinking there's no way I'm going anywhere near the deadly scree filled slope.

An hour later I find out that the slope is much less intimidating than it appeared from distance. The trail, even though steep, is not quite as exposed, the trail is well threaded and the scree holds together much better than we are used to at Pacific NW. 

The pass beholds breathtaking views. We are now in the world of rock layered by millions of years of sedimentation, and at the bottom long slides of scree stretch into the valley. Here we face another decision. As described in our guidebook (Dolomites Trekking - Alta Via 1 & Alta Via 2 by Henry Stedman) we should take the route towards Forcella Forces de Sielles. A series of short iron cables should lead trekkers to a grassy plateau with views of the Fanes Group, Sella Group, and Odle Peaks. The shorter way to get there (30 minutes time saving) is to take a short Via Ferrata along trail 3A (which is in our guide book still marked under its old number 2C, with a warning "Don't go this way! Difficult route)

The conditions are good and we have our via ferrata gear so we take trail 3A  and it turns to be a fun route with minimal exposure protected by steel cables and aided by one ladder. 

In 30 minutes we are at the plateau excited to have completed our very first via ferrata. After a quick lunch we drop our packs and summit Piz Duleda, a peak rising above Forcella Della Roa. The climb starts from the plateau takes 30 minutes on easy to follow trail which except for several moves at the very top is a walk up. It offers 360 degree views, well worth the little effort to get there.

We now have about an hour to reach our destination, Refugio Puez. Still following trail 3A we drop the other side of the plateau, watching sheep grazing around us and several marmots near their grassy homes. The path is good and after the initial steeper grade descents gently to a bowl where we reach a junction telling us that Puez, and more importantly some warm food, is only 30 more minutes away. 30 scenic minutes that is, the camera clicks frequently as more views open ahead of us. It's 15:30 when we arrive.

Refugio Puez is located at a junction of several routes. It fills quickly, reservations are recommended. Accommodation is provided in dorm rooms, our holds 12 people in 3 level high bunk beds. Hot shower is available for 3.00 euro, sinks with hot water where one can wash up are free. Dinner is not served until 18:30 but at least we can order soup and beverages while we are waiting, and at 17:30 when electricity is turned on in the dining area, also charge our electronics.