Rim-Tim-Rim, Grand Canyon 5/1/14 - 5/3/14

Arriving at the South Rim Backcountry office, we hope for a 3 night permit in the Grand Canyon corridor. Permits for the day are already gone. We are told to come back first thing the next morning. We won’t be able to get 3 nights but if we are there just as they open, we are guaranteed 2 nights. We can undoubtedly complete Rim to Rim in 3 days. Rim to Rim to Rim... well we will find out.

Securing our permits the next day, we prepare for our trip. The backpacks are back to being loaded with gear and food, and plenty of water as the South Kaibab trail on which we choose to descent is dry.

 Our adventure starts early in the morning of May 1st when the bus drops us off at the South Kaibab trailhead. Everybody gets off here but not everybody embarks on the same journey we have in mind for ourselves. Judging from the size of peoples packs, most of the crowd are day hikers.

The canyon appeared desolate and barren from up above but now while we are descending deep into its gut, the experience differs from the initial perspective. The flora consists of blooming cacti plants, fauna is represented by lizards. There are many of them everywhere along the trail. Green and brown, large and small, and all of them are quickly rushing out of our way.

We come across the first peek-a-boo view of Colorado River. It still seems so far below us. The trail relentlessly descends towards it on a series of switchbacks. Not a paradise for those with creaky knees.

 It’s a small celebration to get to the river. The sun is now beating on us, and the idea of chilling on

the beach brings smile to our faces. But before we can do that  we have to endure the first uphill of the day to get to the Bright Angel Creek Camp. The trail ascends on a very gentle grade which in the heat feels much steeper. Some campsites are already taken. We find one we like at the very end of the camp. There is a beautiful tree on our site full of elongated red blooms. Later we learn it is pomegranate tree. I have never seen one before, and even though somebody likely planted it here, seeing one growing freely in nature feels special.

After the camp is set, we finally have a chance to enjoy the waterfront. Swimming is prohibited in Colorado River due to strong currents but wading along the shore is fine. Afterwards we explore surrounding areas including Phantom Range where we have a drink, and later in the evening we join a ranger talk on the topics of the first explorers of Grand Canyon. When the dark falls, the ranger takes us on a scorpion hunt. We find at least three of them nearby to where we were sitting for the talk.

 The challenge that lies ahead of us the next day is a 28 mile round trip to the North Rim and back. The heat took a toll on me yesterday, I’m not feeling the strongest, and we opt for additional hour of sleep. Still I do not feel too well so we decide to take it easy and stroll only as far as we can make it. Cottonwood campground 7 miles from here on an easier terrain would make a good destination

and a decent RT of 14 miles.

We make a good time on the flatter trail and after a water stop at Cottonwood I feel strong enough to push it further. And then further, and further yet. There are waterfalls, and blooming trees in the proximity of the water source. And signs showing the layers of rock and our location. We’ve made it long ways but there are still many layers above us, and the trail starts steepening up.

Pushing through a couple miles traverse on a ledge with a sizeable drop off much closer that I care for raises my heart beat. I really do not care for this section much despite the fact the rock around us is my favorite red color and the canyon we’re ascending is truly beautiful. Soon we should get to the last water source en route and that is good because we’re running out.

 Several people confirmed at the ranger’s talk yesterday that water is running at the tunnel station but

today it’s dry. Not even a drop. It’s not good. We’re only 2.5 miles away from the North Rim, so close on a scale of the trip, yet without water 2.5 miles can stretch very far. It’s all uphill, the description talks about relentless switchbacks the last mile or so. We save our last few sips and start heading to the rim.

In the end the trail is less steep than I expected and we make good time. The water is running. There are several other trail runners atop, all of them passed us on the way up, even though some of them we kept pretty close to. They are doing the whole rim-rim-rim in one day. I consider that crazy, and not all of them look in a good shape to run another 22 miles with significant elevation gain, but everybody to their own.

 After a quick visit and few of photos, we start heading down. The North Rim is officially still closed

for the season. With none of the buildings open, there is no reason to linger. The views are along the trail, not here by the treed trailhead, and quite frankly I’m also anxious to be past the traverse.

Descending the traverse turns much easier that the image that formed in my mind. There is a section or two where I am extra careful but otherwise we zoom right through. I have particularly good energy and even jog the flatter sections.

Backpacking boots are not for jogging I learn when my feet start burning at about milepost 21. They go from all happy to all achy within minutes and upon inspection I find couple blisters formed in between my toes. The rest of the way I hobble.

 It feels extremely good to dip my feet in the cold creek rushing by our campsite but even after the

cold bath my feet remain tired and sore. Tomorrow we have to walk out. It means hiking over 9 miles, gaining more than 4000 ft of elevation. Right now I hardly can manage the few flat steps to Phantom Range where we get celebratory drinks. Yet when tomorrow comes, our feet feel rejuvenated. They do not object slipping back into the boots. We start early to beat the heat, the temperature is forecasted to reach 98 degrees. We  are among the first people on trail. The sun already basks

the upper portion of the canyon walls but for now we are hiking in the shade.

The shade does not last long. The canyon betrays us to the heat just when we start up the first series of switchbacks. Our pace slows considerably but we still pass some people. And then others pass us.

 The first of the three water station cannot come fast enough. We drink, we rest, and off we are

towards water station #2. That’s how I break the trail into smaller, more manageable pieces - water station #1, #2, #3 and then the final push towards the rim. The trail itself is not difficult. Well established path, steeper at spots but nothing I haven’t done before. It’s the heat that’s getting to me. I have never done well in heat.

At water station #3 I feel really exhausted. It’s only about 1.5 miles to the top, and some of it shaded according to the ranger we meet, but I have no desire to move from the comfort of the shaded shelter where we rest. I can imagine closing my eyes and taking a nap. It’s a tempting desire. But I fight it. I dunk my shirt into the water. It’s cold, raising goosebumps on my overheated skin. It does the trick, cooling me down instantly. I wish I used the trick earlier. Afterwards the last stretch is a breeze.

We made it happen. Rim-Rim-Rim in three days. Feeling good about that accomplishment!

Chitwan NP - October 2012

How long does it take to drive 90 km (60 miles)? By bus approximately six hours we are told at the Katmandu office of Hotel Park Side. Round ticket would cost little less than $10.00. We accept the offer. Just two hours earlier rep from another agency told us that all buses were full due to national holiday and the only way to get to Sauhara was to hire a private driver for $170.00.

The next morning we set out for the bus station. According to the directions it’s merely 15 minutes walk along the main road. I don’t remember seeing a bus station in that direction, neither does Dave but our hotels staff reassures us that we won’t miss it.

And it indeed would be hard to miss. The buses line both sides of the road. They are long lines without any indication when each bus leaves or where is it going. The on site helper keeps busy seeing people into the correct one. Thankful for his service, we follow him  to a bus nearby where the driver checks our tickets and leads us to appointed seats. The bus is old but seats seem quite comfortable. Air Conditioning is provided by a fan mounted on each window. No other luxuries.

The bus fills quickly. Some people are even placed on a bench in the drivers cabin. We conclude the uncomfortably looking wood bench with no personal space must be for those who could not afford full price tickets.

A whistle sets the buses in motion. They take off at once and float down the street heading out of Kathmandu. Before we bid farewell to the city, we make a stop at a gas station. Long line of busses means a long wait. Local kids run among the busses trying to sell water and snacks to the bored passengers.

In about half hour we are in motion once again. The road is in poor condition and gets worse once we are past Kathmandu’s city limits. It snakes, too narrowly and too close to a treacherous cliff, down a steep valley.

The lowlands are words apart from the cold inhospitable mountain regions Nepal is also home to. Agriculture thrives here. Slopes of the valley shine green, every space is utilized for crops of various kinds. Large banana trees line the road.

The air is hot and humid, weighted with dust of our crumbling surroundings. The road, a highway running between two major cities, is in worse shape than many forest roads in US. As we cover the distance we are searching for a single building that would not be in desperate need of repair. Our search yields no results. The luckier people own a shabby, unfinished house, for the poor home is often nothing more than a straw roof supported by 4 sticks.

Sauhara, the entrance to Chitwan NP is in better shape. It’s a tourist village and with tourists come money. We are picked up at the bus stop by a rep from our hotel and in a terrain vehicle transported to the premises where we will spend the following 3 days. Parksite Hotel. The rooms are spacious and clean. Stuff friendly as far as we can tell. Awaiting our first adventure, we strike a friendly conversation with a couple from Holland with whom we share the next 3 days. There is also a family from Canada, husband and wife with their 2 children, who relocated to Kathmandu for a year so that the husband can help local hospital. Hearing about the little victories they celebrated along their now 3-month journey gives us an unique look on the challenges life in third world countries like Nepal can rise.

Chitwan NP is known for it’s healthy population of hippo’s, deer, crocodiles, and monkeys, sightings of tigers and sloth bears were also reported. We spend the following three days trying to catch our own sight of these animals, in canoe, jeep, and on foot. Fall when the grass is tall and strong, is not the ideal time for a visit, and excursions deep into the jungle are not permitted for safety, however we are still lucky to see several hippos, deer, family of monkeys, a crocodile, and a wild boar. The opportunity to visit elephant breeding center and pet baby elephants is another highlight of this trip.