Eldorado, WA 6/21/14 - 6/22/14

With yet another sunny weekend we cannot not pass the temptation of Eldorado. It means getting up at 4:30 a.m. in order to be at Marblemount Ranger Station before the permits run out. It turns out our worry is unjustified, there is only one party of 2 ahead of us, plenty of permits left. Other areas like Boston Basin, or Hidden Lake Peak are quite open too. Where is everybody? Enjoying the naked bicyclists in Seattle?

 The initial creek crossing is easily accomplished on a wide log which is wet but not slippery.

From there we used several smaller logs to cross marshy areas and another smaller stream. Then, finally, we are on the unmaintained climbers route as the trailhead sign referred to it.

At first there are some blowdowns to deal with but the path gets relatively clear within the first ¼ mile or so and after that there is only an occasional tree to climb over or under.

 It is nice not to deal with snow on the boulder field but we are  not lucky to enjoy the same conditions all the way up. The snow starts at the upper reaches of the second boulder field, and it is soft and weak, and collapsing under our feet. It does not feel the best not to know if our next step is landing on solid rock or a snow bridge. It is a relatively short section though, and if the warmer

temperatures persist for few more days, it might be melted out before next weekend comes.

The glacier is in a great shape all the way to the camp, no visible crevasses along the route or nearby. We camp at the bivi site where we find a water source (decently trinkling snow melt water), it is going well in the afternoon, not so much in the morning, so filling up in the evening is advisable. The toilet is melted out and in working condition, always a good thing.

 We start towards the summit in the morning, not particularly early since we only have about 1500

feet left. We chose to use crampons but the snow is already softening on the east facing slope. Not much route finding needed, it’s quite a straightforward climb. At one spot our rope leader notices a crack which the previous kick steps crossed. We decide to avoid the area by climbing to the left.

 The top still has a cornice hanging towards us, and though there is a slight detour. Instead of

heading straight up towards the knife edge, the route leads us behind it where we found ourselves on a wide ledge, and few steps up a snow bank got us to the base of the final ridge.

The knife edge is not as melted as we were hoping for, and the upper part is much steeper than it usually is later in the season. There is a boot track all the way to the top which we follow but we do not like the approximately 60% slope and the snow condition which are not in favor of successful self arrest should we slip. We make it part way up but in the end we decided to play it safe and turn before reaching the high point.

Ruth Mountain, WA 6/7/2014 - 6/8/2014

The forecast seems promising, and I’m craving some North Cascades views. Ideas are flowing. In the end we decide for Ruth Mountain. Neither of us climbed it before, it will be good to explore new territory.

 We make a plan to camp at the summit to enjoy sunset and sunrise. We leave Seattle optimistic despite the fact the forecast downgraded from mostly sunny to partly sunny but the closer we are to the mountains, the more obvious it becomes that the partial sunshine will be hard to find. Clouds roll across the sky, cutting off the mountain tops. Summit of Ruth might not be the best place to camp after all. We stop at Glacier Ranger station and pick up the permit anyway, just in case it clears later during the day.

The approach is on an easy trail through valley where spring desperately tries to start. First flowers are appearing along the trail, snowmelt creates beautiful waterfalls. Yet the remainders of winter are still present. Large fields of avalanche debris we have to cross, weakening snow bridges that slow our progress. Overall the trail is in better shape that it was last year when we dealt with at least 15 bad snow bridges on our way to Hannegan Peak. This time the number is down to 4.

 Solid snow coverage starts just below the switchbacks to Hannegan Pass. The conditions are

good, both crampons and snowshoes remain strapped to my backpack. Heading up the steep snow covered scramble slope I opt to reach for my ice axe.

With several groups ahead of us a path is set on the traverse to Ruth arm. Once we get there we face a decision. Should we proceed to the top as planned? Or should we perhaps camp here. We’re not the only ones who try to make our mind. A group of three skiers are contemplating as well. In the end they decide to push on. With dark clouds rolling towards us, the summit does not look inviting for an overnight stay.  Thinking we might even head back to the car if weather worsens, we drop our overnight gear and head to bag the summit.

 The views are excellent. We don’t see much of Shuksan or Baker but there are many other peaks that are below the clouds, including neighboring Icy.

In the end we decide to camp on the arm. The clouds are coming and going but otherwise it’s a pleasant evening, warm and calm. We don’t regret the decision. The sky clears just before sunset. Moon rises above Ruth. We have a chance to enjoy some incredible colors.

 The morning brings more clouds. Where there was Ruth yesterday, we stare into a white void. We pack and head down. The clouds are much lower today, the rain is imminent but we make it out dry. Couple hours later we raise our glasses. Cheers to another great trip!

Rim-Tim-Rim, Grand Canyon 5/1/14 - 5/3/14

Arriving at the South Rim Backcountry office, we hope for a 3 night permit in the Grand Canyon corridor. Permits for the day are already gone. We are told to come back first thing the next morning. We won’t be able to get 3 nights but if we are there just as they open, we are guaranteed 2 nights. We can undoubtedly complete Rim to Rim in 3 days. Rim to Rim to Rim... well we will find out.

Securing our permits the next day, we prepare for our trip. The backpacks are back to being loaded with gear and food, and plenty of water as the South Kaibab trail on which we choose to descent is dry.

 Our adventure starts early in the morning of May 1st when the bus drops us off at the South Kaibab trailhead. Everybody gets off here but not everybody embarks on the same journey we have in mind for ourselves. Judging from the size of peoples packs, most of the crowd are day hikers.

The canyon appeared desolate and barren from up above but now while we are descending deep into its gut, the experience differs from the initial perspective. The flora consists of blooming cacti plants, fauna is represented by lizards. There are many of them everywhere along the trail. Green and brown, large and small, and all of them are quickly rushing out of our way.

We come across the first peek-a-boo view of Colorado River. It still seems so far below us. The trail relentlessly descends towards it on a series of switchbacks. Not a paradise for those with creaky knees.

 It’s a small celebration to get to the river. The sun is now beating on us, and the idea of chilling on

the beach brings smile to our faces. But before we can do that  we have to endure the first uphill of the day to get to the Bright Angel Creek Camp. The trail ascends on a very gentle grade which in the heat feels much steeper. Some campsites are already taken. We find one we like at the very end of the camp. There is a beautiful tree on our site full of elongated red blooms. Later we learn it is pomegranate tree. I have never seen one before, and even though somebody likely planted it here, seeing one growing freely in nature feels special.

After the camp is set, we finally have a chance to enjoy the waterfront. Swimming is prohibited in Colorado River due to strong currents but wading along the shore is fine. Afterwards we explore surrounding areas including Phantom Range where we have a drink, and later in the evening we join a ranger talk on the topics of the first explorers of Grand Canyon. When the dark falls, the ranger takes us on a scorpion hunt. We find at least three of them nearby to where we were sitting for the talk.

 The challenge that lies ahead of us the next day is a 28 mile round trip to the North Rim and back. The heat took a toll on me yesterday, I’m not feeling the strongest, and we opt for additional hour of sleep. Still I do not feel too well so we decide to take it easy and stroll only as far as we can make it. Cottonwood campground 7 miles from here on an easier terrain would make a good destination

and a decent RT of 14 miles.

We make a good time on the flatter trail and after a water stop at Cottonwood I feel strong enough to push it further. And then further, and further yet. There are waterfalls, and blooming trees in the proximity of the water source. And signs showing the layers of rock and our location. We’ve made it long ways but there are still many layers above us, and the trail starts steepening up.

Pushing through a couple miles traverse on a ledge with a sizeable drop off much closer that I care for raises my heart beat. I really do not care for this section much despite the fact the rock around us is my favorite red color and the canyon we’re ascending is truly beautiful. Soon we should get to the last water source en route and that is good because we’re running out.

 Several people confirmed at the ranger’s talk yesterday that water is running at the tunnel station but

today it’s dry. Not even a drop. It’s not good. We’re only 2.5 miles away from the North Rim, so close on a scale of the trip, yet without water 2.5 miles can stretch very far. It’s all uphill, the description talks about relentless switchbacks the last mile or so. We save our last few sips and start heading to the rim.

In the end the trail is less steep than I expected and we make good time. The water is running. There are several other trail runners atop, all of them passed us on the way up, even though some of them we kept pretty close to. They are doing the whole rim-rim-rim in one day. I consider that crazy, and not all of them look in a good shape to run another 22 miles with significant elevation gain, but everybody to their own.

 After a quick visit and few of photos, we start heading down. The North Rim is officially still closed

for the season. With none of the buildings open, there is no reason to linger. The views are along the trail, not here by the treed trailhead, and quite frankly I’m also anxious to be past the traverse.

Descending the traverse turns much easier that the image that formed in my mind. There is a section or two where I am extra careful but otherwise we zoom right through. I have particularly good energy and even jog the flatter sections.

Backpacking boots are not for jogging I learn when my feet start burning at about milepost 21. They go from all happy to all achy within minutes and upon inspection I find couple blisters formed in between my toes. The rest of the way I hobble.

 It feels extremely good to dip my feet in the cold creek rushing by our campsite but even after the

cold bath my feet remain tired and sore. Tomorrow we have to walk out. It means hiking over 9 miles, gaining more than 4000 ft of elevation. Right now I hardly can manage the few flat steps to Phantom Range where we get celebratory drinks. Yet when tomorrow comes, our feet feel rejuvenated. They do not object slipping back into the boots. We start early to beat the heat, the temperature is forecasted to reach 98 degrees. We  are among the first people on trail. The sun already basks

the upper portion of the canyon walls but for now we are hiking in the shade.

The shade does not last long. The canyon betrays us to the heat just when we start up the first series of switchbacks. Our pace slows considerably but we still pass some people. And then others pass us.

 The first of the three water station cannot come fast enough. We drink, we rest, and off we are

towards water station #2. That’s how I break the trail into smaller, more manageable pieces - water station #1, #2, #3 and then the final push towards the rim. The trail itself is not difficult. Well established path, steeper at spots but nothing I haven’t done before. It’s the heat that’s getting to me. I have never done well in heat.

At water station #3 I feel really exhausted. It’s only about 1.5 miles to the top, and some of it shaded according to the ranger we meet, but I have no desire to move from the comfort of the shaded shelter where we rest. I can imagine closing my eyes and taking a nap. It’s a tempting desire. But I fight it. I dunk my shirt into the water. It’s cold, raising goosebumps on my overheated skin. It does the trick, cooling me down instantly. I wish I used the trick earlier. Afterwards the last stretch is a breeze.

We made it happen. Rim-Rim-Rim in three days. Feeling good about that accomplishment!

Beaver Falls, Arizona 4/28/2014

We have a relatively late start, crawling from out tents around 8:00 a.m., but with less than 6 miles to cover today, that is not an issue.

Mile one is the most adventurous one. We leave camp and tread the now familiar path to Mooney Fall. From there we are on a new turf. The exploration begins as we lower ourselves into a narrow cave and descent some 20 meters enclosed by its wall. It leads us to an opening from which we can see the canyon ahead of us. It’s feels like a piece of Amazon was dropped in between the barren canyon walls, a thriving forest of jungle like trees and plants.

The next stage of our descent is aided by chains. Downclimbing is the easiest way down. The cliff is steep, vertical, but foot placements are surprisingly good and we progress much faster than expected.

When we reach the last 15 meters, the chains are replaced by ladders. The waterfall touches the bottom just few feet away, sending a large cloud of misty sprays in our direction. Its powerful roar is overwhelming.

It’s easy to follow the well trodden trail at the bottom of the canyon. It’s equally easy to get distracted by the multiple side trails leading to variety of viewpoints. The canyon is just as breathtaking as it appeared from above. The greenery is met with the saphyre flow of the river. Unique plants line the trail, many of them showcasing their blooms. There are hundreds of lizards running for their life as soon as they feel the soft vibration of our steps. Luckily we don’t come across any snakes.

2.5 miles, 3 river crossings, and several shorter scrambles later the view of Beaver Falls opens in front of us. The waterfall consists of several terraces. The pools in between them are small but deep enough for a swim. Like many others we wade through the bottom pool and scramble the canyon wall up to the higher ones. From this vantage point we see the water topple over the ledges until it becomes a river again, smoother and calmer.

Worthwhile side trip if you have the time to take it. And if you do, come early. Once the sun sets behind the canyon wall, the temperature drops significantly. It’s great for photography as then the reds really stand out but no so much for swimming.

Havasu Falls, Arizona - 4/27/2014

Standing at the Hualapai Hilltop we are admiring the vast barren canyon as it opens in front of us. Prominent cliffs of Coconino Sandstone are met here with red tones of the slope forming Hermit Shale layer. A feast for the eye. 

 Quick sunscreen application and the adventure can start. Series of switchbacks drop us to the canyon floor. From there the trail takes a gentle, nearly flat grade. It’s a scenic walk during which we have the opportunity to admire from up close and personal the different layers of rock in which the hues of red become more and more prominent as we are getting lower.

About six miles down the trail Hualapai and Cataract Canyons intersect to form Havasu Canyon, home of the most idyllic waterfall settings I had ever seen. But before we even get a glimpse of the waterfalls, we have to pay visit to the tourism office in Supai Village where we settle our fees and receive a green wristband which lets us meander here freely for the next 2 days. There are about 43 households in Supai, which is also the capital of the Havasupai Indian reservation, a lodge, 2 stores and a cafe. They sell fry bread at the cafe which makes it a mandatory stop.

The last couple miles of day 1 are a stroll along a stream. Even though we thoroughly enjoyed the scenery of the upper canyon, the presence of the water is refreshing. It brings lush greens and colorful blooms.

Just a short walk from the village we come across the first waterfall. Navajo Falls came to being in 2008 when flood moved massive amount of rock and mud, carving a deep bed for the water to flow through. The creek erupts from vegetation in several different streams and falls into pools below. It is an amazing scene which makes us stop for nearly 30 minutes. The camera clicks frequently during this stp as we try to capture the beauty from any accessible angle.

Havasu Fall has completely different appearance. The vibrant blue water contrasts against the striking red rock of the canyon walls as the waterfall plunges nearly 100 feet into a wide pool. There are many people down by the pool , sunbathing or swimming. It is hot on the sun and a dip in the cool water sounds tempting.

To Havasu Falls we head after the camp is set. I like our camping spot on a soft sandy bank with a background music of nearby creek and frogs living in its shallow water. We even have a large picnic table, a luxury we seldom enjoy while backpacking.

The easily accessible plunge pool bellow Havasu Fall is a popular place. Many people are gathered here even now in late afternoon. The water is said to be around 70 degrees. It fels cool as I make my first step in but it does not take long for my body to adjust. Some people are swimming. With the sun setting behind the rock wall, I don't have a desire to jump to the pool head to toe, wading in the knee deep water further from the waterfall suits me fine. 

After dinner we head to Mooney Falls which is not far downstreat from our campsite. Havasu is said to be the main attraction of the valley but I find Mooney Falls jut as magnificent. Each drop falls with its own clarity, making a vast splash upon the level surface below. The sleek sapphire descent is simple staggering to observe. 

Tomorrow, if we dare to descent on a cliff aided by chains and ladders, we will follow the river flowdeeper into the canyon for more breathtaking scenery.