Yosemite Bound - Lee Vining to Yosemite Valley

August 2, 2014

There are three shuttles that run to Yosemite every day; however only one of them go all the way to Yosemite Valley. The remaining two terminate at Tuolumne Meadows. So in reality we could have slept at least an hour longer but since we decided to stop at Tuolumne first, we were up at 6:20 a.m. and ready to check out just before 7:00 a.m. We grabbed coffee and chai latte and some pumpkin bread at the Latte da Coffee Cafe, which was adjacent to the El Moo Motel and headed to the YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System) shuttle stop about a block away.

Shuttle to Yosemite Valley

The shuttle ride was pleasant, offering great views of the mountainous terrain. After 40 minutes we arrived at Tuolumne Meadows. We had just enough time to visit the Grill and walk a mile to the visitor center to buy and mail some postcards before we had to return to the shuttle stop.

The air was not too hazy but we could smell smoke in the air. Normally I would associate this scent with a pleasant bonfire and roasted sausages. This bonfire however was burning on 3400 acres and 1400 firefighters were tending to it. We were saddened by the loss of such a vast area of beautiful forest but we were also happy that the fire did not mean any change in our plan as it was burning in an area not directly affecting the JMT.

Half Dome

The next YARTS bus was supposed to arrive at 10:15 a.m. When there was no sign of it at 10:25 we started to worry that we might have missed it somehow. Luckily for us it was just running late. Once again the ride was smooth and the views were getting even better. Behind us was a couple returning to their vehicle parked in the Valley. They got stuck in a stormy weather and after several days of heavy rain they gave up and left the trail about 70 miles short of Whitney. It was sunny and close to 100 degrees. It was hard to imagine any prolonged period of rain.

Once we got our permits, which was an easy task involving a fifteen minute chat with a friendly ranger at the Yosemite Valley Ranger Station, we hurried to secure our spot at the backpackers camp. There was plenty of space when we arrived. There is no potable water at the backpacker camp but nearest source is only about 5 minutes away at the Pines Campground.

Backpackers Campground

Yosemite Valley has a great shuttle system. Not only you can take YARTS to the Valley, you can then take the smaller shuttle buses to get around the Valley. These shuttles run a one hour loop, hop on and off at your leisure, and they are completely free. When our headquarters was set up for the night, we took advantage of this shuttle system and returned to the village for lunch and sight seeing.

Then we took the shuttle all around the Valley and then yet continued back to stop # 6 which was perfect for sunset photos. A view of Half Dome across an open meadow that lured us for a pre-dusk stroll. We made a few step on a bridge over a peacefully flowing Merced River when Dave pointed across the water.

"Bear."

Finally a bear. Yosemite Valley is known for its bears and I was looking to catch a sight of one ever since we arrived. The bear made it to the bridge but when he saw us, he continued further downstream where he crossed over. I'm positive he would have used the bridge if it wasn't for us standing on it.

Our first Yosemite bear sighting

Washington has a healthy population of black bears but most of times you see them stationed in a berry field far away from the trail. This one we saw from up close and it was active, walking around and swimming. It was a neat experience.

The evening brought pinking color to the sky as the sun set behind the curtain of smoke. The air quality in the Valley was good, I hardly could detect any smoke in the air. I was happy about it. Even though the fire did not directly threatened the trail, the smoke could easily make our hike unpleasant.

Smoky Sunset

Speaking of a hike, we were so excited, we found it hard to fall asleep that night. I'm sure the hot humid evening did not help either. We were ready for some fresh mountain air.


Tomorrow we set out for our journey and I will face one of my biggest fears.

Yosemite Bound - Seattle to Lee Vining

AUGUST 1, 2014

The thought of another thru hike was lingering on our minds for quite a while. Ever since we completed the 93 miles Wonderland Loop in August of 2012 we had our hearts set on a longer, bigger adventure. We just loved being out there exploring places where your usual weekend warrior does not have the time to set foot on and experiencing the nature in more solitude then hikes closer to civilization can offer.

John Muir Trail seemed to have what we were looking for. Amazing scenery, plenty of sunshine, and its length of 211 miles (+ few extra miles to walk back to civilization from the sumit of Mt. Whitney) was a nice step up from the 9 day thru hike of Wonderland yet it was not a completely overwhelming number.

Seattle Light Rail Station

Dave was in charge of transportation. We briefly considered driving to Yosemite or Lone Pine and use local transportation to shuttle ourselves between the trailheads. The advantage would be that we could stop at interesting places along the way but after quick reality check we realized that we didn't have enough vacation time for any extra stops and quite frankly a 17-hours drive home after completing a three-week walking trip was not that alluring either. In the end we decided to take a flight from Seattle where we live to Reno, and from there hop on a bus operated by East Sierra Transit (ESTA) to Lee Vining, small town along Hwy 395 with a connection shuttle to the Yosemite Valley. Taking this way we arrived to Lee Vining in mid afternoon and since the Yosemite shuttle YARTS run only in the morning, we spent the night in this quite interesting little town.

Waiting for ESTA bus at Reno Airport

ESTA bus to Lee Vining

We chose the El Mono motel mainly because the good price and positive reviews. It was a simple accommodation but the room was cozy and clean and for a thru hiker really a luxury. We were little groggy after the hours of traveling but we summoned our energy and set out to check the town out.

Room at El Mono Motel

Lee Vining is located close to Mono Lake, large shallow saline soda lake formed more then 760,000 years ago that is known for its beautiful tufa towers. Tufa is a variety of limestone and the tufa columns are usually associated with saline lakes. The main tufa viewing area was at the other side of the lake, 8 miles out of town but the marina, which was about 2 miles away provided just as spectacular views.

Dave walking towards Mono Lake

Sunset at Mono Lake

Sunset at Mono Lake

Tomorrow we will arrive at Yosemite Valley and have our first California bear encounter.

Continue to

DAY 2

Beaver Falls, Arizona 4/28/2014

We have a relatively late start, crawling from out tents around 8:00 a.m., but with less than 6 miles to cover today, that is not an issue.

Mile one is the most adventurous one. We leave camp and tread the now familiar path to Mooney Fall. From there we are on a new turf. The exploration begins as we lower ourselves into a narrow cave and descent some 20 meters enclosed by its wall. It leads us to an opening from which we can see the canyon ahead of us. It’s feels like a piece of Amazon was dropped in between the barren canyon walls, a thriving forest of jungle like trees and plants.

The next stage of our descent is aided by chains. Downclimbing is the easiest way down. The cliff is steep, vertical, but foot placements are surprisingly good and we progress much faster than expected.

When we reach the last 15 meters, the chains are replaced by ladders. The waterfall touches the bottom just few feet away, sending a large cloud of misty sprays in our direction. Its powerful roar is overwhelming.

It’s easy to follow the well trodden trail at the bottom of the canyon. It’s equally easy to get distracted by the multiple side trails leading to variety of viewpoints. The canyon is just as breathtaking as it appeared from above. The greenery is met with the saphyre flow of the river. Unique plants line the trail, many of them showcasing their blooms. There are hundreds of lizards running for their life as soon as they feel the soft vibration of our steps. Luckily we don’t come across any snakes.

2.5 miles, 3 river crossings, and several shorter scrambles later the view of Beaver Falls opens in front of us. The waterfall consists of several terraces. The pools in between them are small but deep enough for a swim. Like many others we wade through the bottom pool and scramble the canyon wall up to the higher ones. From this vantage point we see the water topple over the ledges until it becomes a river again, smoother and calmer.

Worthwhile side trip if you have the time to take it. And if you do, come early. Once the sun sets behind the canyon wall, the temperature drops significantly. It’s great for photography as then the reds really stand out but no so much for swimming.

Havasu Falls, Arizona - 4/27/2014

Standing at the Hualapai Hilltop we are admiring the vast barren canyon as it opens in front of us. Prominent cliffs of Coconino Sandstone are met here with red tones of the slope forming Hermit Shale layer. A feast for the eye. 

 Quick sunscreen application and the adventure can start. Series of switchbacks drop us to the canyon floor. From there the trail takes a gentle, nearly flat grade. It’s a scenic walk during which we have the opportunity to admire from up close and personal the different layers of rock in which the hues of red become more and more prominent as we are getting lower.

About six miles down the trail Hualapai and Cataract Canyons intersect to form Havasu Canyon, home of the most idyllic waterfall settings I had ever seen. But before we even get a glimpse of the waterfalls, we have to pay visit to the tourism office in Supai Village where we settle our fees and receive a green wristband which lets us meander here freely for the next 2 days. There are about 43 households in Supai, which is also the capital of the Havasupai Indian reservation, a lodge, 2 stores and a cafe. They sell fry bread at the cafe which makes it a mandatory stop.

The last couple miles of day 1 are a stroll along a stream. Even though we thoroughly enjoyed the scenery of the upper canyon, the presence of the water is refreshing. It brings lush greens and colorful blooms.

Just a short walk from the village we come across the first waterfall. Navajo Falls came to being in 2008 when flood moved massive amount of rock and mud, carving a deep bed for the water to flow through. The creek erupts from vegetation in several different streams and falls into pools below. It is an amazing scene which makes us stop for nearly 30 minutes. The camera clicks frequently during this stp as we try to capture the beauty from any accessible angle.

Havasu Fall has completely different appearance. The vibrant blue water contrasts against the striking red rock of the canyon walls as the waterfall plunges nearly 100 feet into a wide pool. There are many people down by the pool , sunbathing or swimming. It is hot on the sun and a dip in the cool water sounds tempting.

To Havasu Falls we head after the camp is set. I like our camping spot on a soft sandy bank with a background music of nearby creek and frogs living in its shallow water. We even have a large picnic table, a luxury we seldom enjoy while backpacking.

The easily accessible plunge pool bellow Havasu Fall is a popular place. Many people are gathered here even now in late afternoon. The water is said to be around 70 degrees. It fels cool as I make my first step in but it does not take long for my body to adjust. Some people are swimming. With the sun setting behind the rock wall, I don't have a desire to jump to the pool head to toe, wading in the knee deep water further from the waterfall suits me fine. 

After dinner we head to Mooney Falls which is not far downstreat from our campsite. Havasu is said to be the main attraction of the valley but I find Mooney Falls jut as magnificent. Each drop falls with its own clarity, making a vast splash upon the level surface below. The sleek sapphire descent is simple staggering to observe. 

Tomorrow, if we dare to descent on a cliff aided by chains and ladders, we will follow the river flowdeeper into the canyon for more breathtaking scenery.

Alta Via 2 - Day 7 - Refugio Passo Valles to Refugio Rosetta Pedrotto

With another long day in our itinerary, we start breakfast at the earliest possible time, 7:00 a.m. There is nobody else in the dining room, and for a moment I envy those with the privilege to sleep in.

Breakfast is good, a nice variety of items to choose from, and a delicious bread. I eat much more than I usually do, there is supposed to be a long climb at the beginning of our day and I will need the energy.

On the trail by 8:00 a.m., heading uphill without warm up. The scenery is beautiful, Passo Valles becomes a dot way bellow us, we are back in a world of high mountains. At first the dirt trail leads through meadows full of purple blooms. It's steep but easy to negotiate, and even the several cable protected sections are a breeze. 

Reaching Forcella Venegia, 2,212 m, at 8:35 a.m. and Passo Venegiota, 2,303 m, an hour later, Refugio G. Volpi di Misurata al Mulaz comes in a view at 12:19. We are now at elevation of 2,560 with many more meters to go. 

After a break to brace ourselves for the steep gully that awaits us, we are back on foot at 12:49. Trail 703 which we start following here lets us gain elevation quickly. It is a firm path, stabilized by lumber beams, several switchbacks and we are looking at the Refugio from couple hundred meters higher.  At 13:50 we are clipped in working our way up a via ferrata. It was described in our book as a little tricky, but except maybe couple steps we do not find it difficult at all.

At 14:55 we have reached the pass. It's downhill from here. Literally. The trail drops down a gully filled with loose scree, we hug a rock wall tightly to prevent slipping at the higher, more exposed area, and then slowly proceed down on loose switchbacks, trying to avoid sliding down. It takes a toll on our legs. (Turning right at the top for perhaps 60 feet and then heading down the gully on much gentler grade would make it easier to descent. It becomes obvious once we are at the bottom, having followed the AV2 route down).

The trail markings on our map suggest the rest of way to Refugio Rosseta (Pedrotti) should be on regular trail with a section of long but easy via ferrata. The adventure; however is far from being over. For somebody (like me) who does not thrive in heights, the narrow path along a cliff with a view of a valley over  2,000 feet bellow, is not necessarily an idea of easy trail. I do not dare to look down, staring at every step in front of me I pray for this section to be over soon. And then a rock outcrop comes which we have to cross. Another one soon follows, and as we find out, most of this "trail" involves exposed scrambling, rarely protected by cable.

By the time we reach the via ferrata section at 17:30 my legs are trembling. I grab the cable, trying to calm my racing heart. The fact that one of the anchors peels off the wall does not help the case.

Otherwise the ferrata is mostly easy. It takes us along cliffs, crosses an exposed gully (some down climbing is required) and spits us on the other side, where the trail is still as narrow and as high as it was before but not with less obstructions we start making a better time. To my liking we now also reach few areas of less exposure (further away from the cliff).

A relief comes at 18:00 when we enter a valley carved by a glacier many millions of years ago. The glacial flow still can be seen in the shape of the valley floor. Still ways from "home" with one last climb ahead of us but the exposure is now over and even though our legs are spent we start making a decent time on the grippy rock as we climb up towards the evening sky.

At 19:01 a sign at a junction announces Refugio Rosetta is 10 minutes away. Couple minutes later we arrive at another junction, unmarked. The main trail is heading up to the left and then curves back while a smaller, faint path weirs off to the right. Both are correct, the right path being slightly shorter while the other one offers a gentler grade. 

Exhausted we arrive at the Refugio Rosetta Pedroti at 19:10, just barely making dinner. 

Alta Via 2 - Day 6 - Hotel Garni Roberta to Refugio Passo Valles

September 2, 2013 

After a fulfilling breakfast we spend the first part of Labor Day laboring up a long hill. The sun is out, it seems that weather-wise it is going to be the best day yet and after a rest day we are excited to see more new scenery.

The scenery, as we leave town, is one of a mixed forest through which a paved road leads us. Eventually we loose the pavement and proceed on gravel road to an intersection. Sign for Forca Rossa where we are heading suggests to go left, but Alta Via 2 sign clearly points to the right. According to a map we should be making a left turn somewhere in this area but keep on gaining elevation. The left turn at this junction heads downhill. We decide to follow the AV2 route and find our left turn a switchback higher.

Larches dominate along the trail now, scattered thinly on the grassy slopes, with a backdrop of rugged mountains. We are too early for fall colors, but my imaginations runs wild picturing the trees dressed in their yellow coat. 

On a smaller scale, flowers bloom along the trail, some of them familiar from the previous several days, some I don't believe we had an opportunity to see yet. We also find a first patch of wild strawberries, and yet another one, yielding small but delicious snack.

Eventually we leave the larches behind and walk through open grassland being able to fully appreciate the majestic peaks around us. Ibex down below us watches our steps, too far for a naked eye but thanks to a high zoom camera we get a decent view. 

Reaching Forca Rossa, elevation 2,490 m, at 11:30 a.m., the uphill is over, for the moment. We sign the geocaché register which we find at the pass, have a quick bite, and start the downhill stroll. It is by far the most serene part of the trip, there is not a soul around us, except for horses roaming the pastures. The trail is soft mix of grass and dirt and we make a good progress.

When a hoard of day hikers appears on horizon, it's a sign we must be nearing civilization. At 13:00 we enter a village of Fuchiade, home to a Refugio and several small wooden houses. From here for the next 3 kilometers the soft grass is replaced by paved road, smooth and gently graded but hard on the feet.

Passo St. Pellegrino, elevation 1,907 m, is the low point for the day. Replenishing our energy with spaghetti with ragú sauce and ice cream at Malga St. Pellegrino restaurant, we are ready to conquer the next uphill. It's about 1,000 feet of elevation we have to gain towards Forcella di Padazzo, elevation 2,220 meters. The trail, leading through slopes covered with blueberry bushes, is easy to follow thanks to good markings, and even though we have to make few easy moves to pull ourselves over boulders, it's generally quite easy going.

The views from up include distant mountains, closer up there is a lake and a ski lift. Once we top, we find a dirt road, wide and hard to miss, heading downhill towards our destination, Passo Valles. Luckily there is a side trail which not only cuts some distance but is more scenic, and after a long day of hiking, the cushy grass underfoot is much appreciated.

Passo Vales at 2,032 m welcomes us at 17:35. The Refugio here, unlike all the others we used so far, is privately own, and is more hotel like with private rooms and showers. The food is delicious after a long day on feet, and we even decide for desert, a specialty called Torrencino Semifreddo, a lemony tasting ice cream cake.